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- BOOKS, Page 70Love Among The Temples
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- THE LADY AND THE MONK
- By Pico Iyer
- Knopf; 338 pages; $22
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- In the fall of 1987, travel writer Pico Iyer flew from his
- home in Santa Barbara, Calif., to Japan. Aware that too much
- had already been said about "the capital of the future tense,"
- Iyer avoided the Tokyo scene. Instead he chose to spend four
- seasons in and around a Kyoto temple, seeking enlightenment in
- a place where "the social forms were as unfathomable to me, and
- as alien, as the woods around Walden Pond."
-
- The reference is apt. Like Thoreau, Iyer combines an acute
- sense of place with a mordant irony. The revealing detail is his
- specialty: he recalls "an old monk brush, brush, brushing a
- pathway clean . . . a sitting Buddha imparting a peace so strong
- it felt like wisdom . . . Yet one could never forget the world
- entirely. Floating up from below came the sound, plangent and
- forlorn, of a garbage collector's truck playing its melancholy
- song."
-
- Iyer tries to focus on spiritual aspects, but Westerners
- break his concentration. A potter from California confesses,
- "For a long time, you know, I used to repress this thing about
- being a witch." Another American, long resident among the
- Japanese, warns, "The one subject you never mention to them is
- politics. Never, man. Makes them go dead." Sex is a different
- matter. Evidences of it are everywhere: in the omnipresent skin
- magazines, the vending machines for X-rated videos, the cryptic
- mechanical devices. Iyer notes and rejects them all.
-
- And then he meets Sachiko. Her husband is a typical
- "salaryman," continually absent from home. For a while, the
- monkish American and the lady regard each other at arm's length.
- But the couple are soon overtaken by enchantment. "I little
- ghost," she tells him. "Old Japanese story: ghost visit man many
- many times, many very happy time together. But man's friends
- much worry. His face more weak, more pale. Ghost eating his
- heart." Reflects Iyer: "She could hardly have given more
- eloquent expression to all my unspoken fears."
-
- No conventionally happy ending can come of this Madama
- Butterfly for the '90s. Still, renunciation has its own rewards.
- By the time of their parting, Sachiko has assumed a Western
- assertiveness, and neither she nor her marriage will ever be the
- same. As for Iyer, the detached observer has finally succumbed
- to love -- in typically Zen manner: "By now it was so much a
- part of my life that I had not even seen it until it was gone."
-
- By Stefan Kanfer
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